Gardening Advice | I have to be honest with you and tell you that I have never really had too much of a green thumb! I can use all the help that I can get. I recently got into square foot gardening. (If you are interested, check out their website at www.squarefootgardening.com.) I bought the book and studied the website. I built 5 boxes and mixed my new Mel's mix soil. I built a greenhouse structure on it and started my seed. Then when it got warm enough, I live in the northern part of the US, I bought and planted a bunch of very healthy transplants.
Well we are now at the end of our growing season here and my plants did not do so well. I believe it had a lot to do with our weather. My back door neighbor has a GREEN thumb. She has been featured on the garden tour more than once. My neighbors garden faired about the same, which leaves me confused and hopeful. You see she has had great soil and has an inground sprinkler system which I do not have. However, about half way through the growing season I started to neglect my garden. With this being said, I am still hopeful to try this system again next year.
It just goes to show that your plants do need lots of water and attention. You cannot get to overly confident. I thought because I had a bottom on all of my boxes and wouldn't have to weed, the special soil that should have retained the moisture, that I could just leave it alone for a bit and let it grow. Not so. But I can admit my mistakes and am always looking to try to learn more.
Make Your Own Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter
- green soda bottle
- cut the bottom off, I cut at the mold mark on the bottle.
- punch 4 holes, so you can hang it at the level you want.
- *Save the bottom of bottle:
Use the bottom of the bottle as a saucer for an existing plant. I understand that if you use a clear soda bottle, that the roots will burn.
- Heat the funnel portion with a hair drier (slow) or heat gun (quick) and push the neck down into the bottle making it flatter. Using a heated nail, punch a few holes around the "moat" that you create. Also, put some coconut coir around the tomato plant before inserting it to prevent washing out of soil.
- Instead of just punching holes for hanging, try again heating a nail to make the hole. This also makes the hole stronger as the plastic thickens around the whole.
Healthy Lawn Basics (From Natural Lawn Care .Eartheasy.com ©2000-2009)
The only way to reduce a dependence on chemical fertilizers is to develop a healthy lawn, which is naturally resistant to weeds, insects and diseases. If you need to fertilize your lawn more than once a year, consider these ways of improving the natural health of your lawn:
1. Improve the Soil
The first step is to test the soil's pH - it should read between 6.5 and 7.0, which is slightly acidic. Soil that is too acidic will need a sprinkling of lime; sulfur can be added to soil which is not acidic enough. You can buy a pH tester (see below, this page) for $40 - $60. Another solution is to have your soil tested professionally; first call your extension office - they often provide soil testing as a free service.
Lawns grow best in loamy soils that have a mix of clay, silt and sand. Too much clay in the soil mix, or heavy use, can compact the soil and prevent air and nutrient flow. Compacted soil may need aeration, a process of lifting small plugs of turf to create air spaces in the soil. For best results, rent an aerator or hire a lawn service to do the job - this will remove "finger size" plugs which improves aeration. Aeration is best done before top dressing and fertilizing.
Organic matter, such as compost and grass clippings, will benefit any type of soil; it lightens soil which is heavy in clay, and it builds humus in sandy soils, which helps retain water and nutrients. |
2. Choose a Locally Adapted Grass
Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients required, shade tolerance and the degree of wear they can withstand. Ask your local garden center to recommend grass which is best adapted to your area.
3. Mow Often, but Not Too Short
Giving your lawn a "Marine cut" is not doing it a favor. Surface roots become exposed, the soil dries out faster and surface aeration is reduced. As a general rule, don't cut off more than one-third of the grass at any one time. Most turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2.5 and 3.5" tall.
4. Water Deeply but Not Too Often
Thorough watering encourages your lawn to develop deep root systems which make the lawn hardier and more drought-resistant. Let the lawn dry out before re-watering; as a rule of thumb, the color should dull and footprints should stay compressed for more than a few seconds. When watering, put a cup in the sprinkler zone; it should get at least one inch (2.5cm) water.
The best time for watering is early morning - less water will be lost to evaporation. Ideally, it's better to water the first half-inch or so, then wait for an hour or two before watering the second half-inch.
5. Control Thatch Build-Up
Thatch is the accumulation of above-soil runners, propagated by the grass. This layer should be about 1/2" ( 1.25cm) on a healthy lawn, and kept in balance by natural decomposition, earthworms and microorganisms. Too much thatch prevents water and nutrients from reaching the grass roots.
You can reduce thatch with a steel rake, or by renting a de-thatcher which does a more thorough jo |
Watering needs for different grass types
How long can you wait between waterings before the lawn starts to go brown?
12 - 21 days: Bahia grass, Buffalo gass, Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, Centipede grass
8 - 12 days: Carpet grass, Fine fescue, Kikuyu grass, Seashore paspalum, Tall fescue, Zoysia
5 - 7 days: Ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, Bentgrass
The fine-leaved fescues (grass blades) as well as the "common" types of Kentucky bluegrasses, such as Park and Kenblue, require less water, fertilizer and cutting than turf-type perennial ryegrass or many of the newer "improved" types of Kentucky bluegrass.
Source: University of Georgia, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences
The new reel lawn mowers
Times have changed.
Push mowers (reel mowers) used to be heavy, clunky contraptions which required great effort in cutting the lawn.
A new generation of reel mowers has been designed, however, which operate much more effectively with a fraction of the effort.
The added benefits include a good light exercise and pollution-free lawn care.
Consider the advantages of a reel mower:
Better Cut. Reel mowers shear the grass rather than tearing it. Most rotary mowers tear the grass which leaves the tips shredded, and the tips soon turn brown. A sheared cut gives a greener lawn, and is preferred by lawn care professionals.
Quiet. You can cut the lawn anytime without disturbing the neighbors or the wildlife. Listen to the birds as you cut the lawn!
Non-polluting. The savings in fuel is significant to both the environment and your wallet. No more dead spark plugs, messy oil changes or stored fuel.
Easier. Today's reel mowers are lighter, easier to push and more effective than the old push mowers. The light weight also makes it easier to move from front to back yard, or lift into a pickup.
Low maintenance. Aside from the occassional drop of oil and blade sharpening, there's little maintenance required. Some models have blades made of hardened steel which do not require sharpening. These blades will last up to ten years before needing replacement.
Inexpensive. With prices ranging from $100 to $350, the cost of a reel mower is less than half that of a lower-end power mower.
If you have a small to medium size lawn, switching from a gas mower to a reel mower may be the biggest environmental savings you can make from your home. If your lawn is large, you can use a reel mower for small or isolated sections, or for a helper to use. Whenever your reel mower is being used, the result is cleaner air.
Buy a reel mower online
You can buy a reel mower from Eartheasy's online store. Click any of the links here to see some different models.
Brill Razorcut 33 reel mower $215.00
Brill Razorcut 38 reel mower $239.00
American 7-blade 16" reel mower $129.95
Scott's Classic reel mower $139.95
Tips for Sustainable Lawn Care
How to spend less on fertilizer, pesticides and water, and save energy and time on lawn maintenance.
• Water early in the morning. Much of the water from daytime watering is lost to evaporation. Avoid overwatering - it's more damaging than underwatering.
• Leave clippings on the lawn. Sometimes referred to as "grass-cycling", this provides nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, water) equivalent to one application of fertilizer. Clippings do not cause thatch. Mulching mowers are also available which help the clippings hide in the grass. For effective grass cycling, wait until the lawn is 3" tall, then set the mower height to remove 1". The clippings left on the lawn will quickly disappear from view. Of course this technique also saves hauling yard waste to the landfill - some states have banned yard waste from landfills.
• Observe the weeds. Dandelions thrive at a pH level of about 7.5, and are a sign to add gardeners sulfur to lower the pH. Clover and medic are sign that your lawn may be nitrogen poor, and needs compost or a nitrogen-weighted fertilizer.
• Fertilize once or twice a year. This is sufficient for an attractive lawn.Cool season grasses are semi-dormant in the summer; fertilizing during summer will be ineffective. Fertilizing in early fall promotes vigorous lawn growth the next spring.
• Use a fertilizer with time-released, water insoluble nitrogen. These fertilizers are less likely to burn your lawn with excess nitrogen, and slow-release allows the roots to absorb the nutrients as needed. In most instances, choose fertilizers containing at least 35% - 50% of their nitrogen supply in the "slow-release" form, such as sulfur-coated urea, methylene urea or various natural organic products. With fast-acting fertilizers, some nutrients are washed away with watering or rain, and the wasted fertilizer pollutes ground water supplies.
• Control lawn weeds with corn gluten. A nontoxic byproduct of corn processing, corn gluten kills weed seedlings within days of application. It also adds nitrogen to your soil. Just one application, before weeds emerge, reduced weed survival by 60%, according to research at Iowa State University. After several years, this method provides as much as 90% weed control. See our page on corn gluten for more info, online sources and product names.
• Keep pesticide/herbicide use to a minimum. Pesticides kill the soil organisms which contribute to a healthy lawn. The sooner you remove harsh chemicals, the faster your soil will recover. Repeated past use of toxic chemicals may have destroyed the microbiotic life that exists in healthy soil; it will take time, at least a season, for the soil to begin to recover. If lawn chemicals are used, clean out pesticide and fertilizer applicators and empty containers on the lawn, where the residue will be utilized. Do not clean out on sidewalks or driveways, or residue will go directly into water supplies.
• 'Spot-treat' weeds with vinegar to minimize herbicide use. Where only a few scattered broadleaf weeds such as dandelions or plantain are present, consider spot-treating individual weeds with household vinegar rather than applying a broadcast treatment of an herbicide over the entire lawn. Mix 5 parts white vinegar, 2 parts water, 1 part dish soap, and apply with a hand pump sprayer. (Vinegar can burn grass and garden plants, so be sure to spot treat weeds only.)
Physically pulling or cutting weeds is also effective; remove as much of the root system as possible to reduce the chance of regrowth.
• Problem with lawn grubs?  For lawn grubs, there is a natural remedy called milky spore . The granules are spread on the soil and cause the grubs to contract a disease that kills them. Only the grubs are affected, leaving beneficial organisms unharmed. Milky spore multiplies over time and will sit inactive, waiting for grubs to infect. One treatment is said to last 40 years. The grubs are actually the larvae of Japanese beetles. So, when you kill the grubs you kill the beetle.
• Hand raking. If the clippings are too long and must be raked, try hand raking. This light aerobic exercise will save you a trip to the gym. If you have fallen leaves to rake, don't burn them - they make excellent mulch for flower or garden beds, or can be added to your compost pile where they'll be converted to rich, organic humus for the garden.
Natural Lawn Care Supplies:
Luscious Lawn® - corn gluten based weed control
All-natural pre-emergence weed control adds nitrogen to your beautiful organic lawn while preventing new weeds from sprouting!
Apply in early spring, 3 - 5 weeks before weeds begin to sprout. Apply again in late fall. 20 lb bag, treats 1000 sq. ft.
Milky Spore - long-lasting, natural control for lawn grubs
Produced to USDA standards, Milky Spore is the safest material ever developed for control over the larvae (grubs) of Japanese Beetles. Milky Spore is not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets or man. It is safe to use around wells.
10 oz. can treats: 2,500 square feet
40 oz. can treats: 10,000 square feet
Natural Insect Pest Control
Ants - The first line of defense is to remove the attractants: keep counters free of crumbs and sticky spots. Cover the sugar and put the honey jar in a plastic baggie. Cut off water sources such as drips or dishes left soaking overnight.
If the ant invaders persist, try these simple measures:
- Keep a small spray bottle handy, and spray the ants with a bit of soapy water.
- Set out cucumber peels or slices in the kitchen or at the ants' point of entry. Many ants have a natural aversion to cucumber. Bitter cucumbers work best.
- Leave a few tea bags of mint tea near areas where the ants seem most active. Dry, crushed mint leaves or cloves also work as ant deterrents.
- Trace the ant column back to their point of entry. Set any of the following items at the entry area in a small line, which ants will not cross: cayenne pepper, citrus oil (can be soaked into a piece of string), lemon juice, cinnamon or coffee grounds.
- Mix a half teaspoon each of honey, borox, and aspartame (Equal, Nutrasweet, etc.), in small bottles. Place bottles on their sides, with lids off, in areas of most ant activity. Ants will carry the bait back to their colonies. Important: use indoors only; must be kept away from pets and children.
- Leave a small, low wattage night light on for a few nights in the area of most ant activity. The change in light can disrupt and discourage their foraging patterns.
- Ants on the deck? Slip a few cut up cloves of garlic between the cracks.
- Clove oil-based commercial ant deterrents are available online.
Dust Mites
- Vacuum mattresses and pillows. For people with sensitivities to dust mite allergens, dust mite bedding is available with zippered, allergen-impermeable encasings designed to block dust mites.
- Wash bedding at 55 degrees Celsius (130F) or higher. Detergents and commercial laundry products have no effect on mites unless the water temperature is high.
- Keep books, stuffed animals, throw rugs and laundry hampers out of the bedroom of allergy sufferers. Wash stuffed animals occasionally in hot water.
- Tannic acid neutralizes the allergens in dust mite and animal dander. Dust problem areas with tannic acid powder, available at health food stores and pet centers.
- Cover mattress and pillows with laminated covers which prevent penetration by dust mites. Avoid fabric-covered headboards.
- Cover heating ducts with a filter which can trap tiny dust particles smaller than 10 microns.
- Avoid using humidifiers. Dust mites thrive on warmth and humidity.
Vinegar Rids Home of Fruit Flies 
- Put cidar vinegar in a dish - add a few drops of dish washing soap - cover with saran wrap then punching several holes in the wrap. If you have a narrow neck bottle use the same amount of liquid but you don't have to cover it.
- Keep a dish in the cabinet that you have your garbage can in.
- An addition to this tip: fruit flies breed in drains, so if you pour a little bleach down your sinks at night you can help control them that way too.
- If its not working well add a piece of fruit to the mix.
Cockroaches
- It is a little known fact that roaches like high places. If you put boric acid on TOP of your kitchen cabinets (not inside), if space allows between ceiling and cabinets, the roaches will take the boric acid to their nests, killing all of them. Boric acid is toxic by mouth - keep away from children and pets.
- Diatomaceous earth is a safe alternative which can be sprinkled in areas where roaches congregate, especially hidden areas such a cabinet tops and behind appliances. Harmless to people, the tiny particles cut the waxy exoskeleton and kills the insect within 48 hours. For a week or so after the treatment, the dehydrating insects will search more actively for water. Therefore, do not be surprised if you see roaches more often after the treatment. Most roaches should be killed within two weeks of application.
- Catnip is a natural repellent to cockroaches. The active ingredient is nepetalactone, which is non-toxic to humans and pets. Small sachets of catnip can be left in areas of cockroach activity. Catnip can also be simmered in a small amount of water to make a "catnip tea" which can be used as a spray to apply around baseboards and behind counters. This natural repellent should only be used in homes without cats!
- Keep a spray bottle of soapy water on hand. Spraying roaches directly with soapy water will kill them.
- In an empty one pound coffee can, place 1 or 2 pieces of bread which have been soaked thoroughly with beer. Place in areas known to have roach infestations.
- Leave bay leaves, cucumber slices or garlic in the affected area as deterrents.
- The fruit of the Osage orange tree, the hedgeapple, is a natural roach repellent. Leave one hedgeapple per room for effective deterrence up to two months. You can learn more about hedgeapples for pest control at hedgeapple.com.
- Non-toxic roach traps are commercially available.
The best defense against cockroaches is a clean kitchen and bathroom. If roaches are a problem in your home or apartment, vacuum well and wash the area with a strong soap. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed container.
Fleas
- Bathe and comb your pet regularly. Use mild soap, not insecticides. If fleas are found on the comb, dip the comb in a glass of soapy water.
- Citrus is a natural flea deterrent. Pour a cup of boiling water over a sliced lemon. Include the lemon skin, scored to release more citrus oil. Let this mixture soak overnight, and sponge on your dog to kill fleas instantly.
- Add brewer's yeast and garlic, or apple cider vinegar, to your pets' food. However, it is not advisable to use raw garlic as a food supplement for cats.
- Cedar shampoo, cedar oil and cedar-filled sleeping mats are commercially available. Cedar repels many insects including fleas.
- Fleas in the carpet? The carpet should be thoroughly vacuumed especially in low traffic areas, under furniture, etc. Put flea powder in the vacuum cleaner bag to kill any fleas that you vacuum up, and put the bag in an outdoor garbage bin.
- Trap fleas in your home using a wide, shallow pan half-filled with soapy water. Place it on the floor and shine a lamp over the water. Fleas will jump to the heat of the lamp and land in the water. The detergent breaks the surface tension, preventing the flea from bouncing out.
- In the yard or garden, plant fleabane (Fleabane Daisy Erigeron speciosus) to repel fleas. This is an annual growing 16-24" tall with violet, daisy like flowers.
- Nontoxic flea traps are available commercially
- Flea Control Nematodes
 can be used to control fleas in outdoor areas your pets frequent.
Fleas usually gain entry to your home through your pet or visitors' pets. For every flea on your pet, there may be as many as 30 more in the pet's environment.
Fleas are similar to cockroaches in that they adapt to their environment. They become stronger and more immune to popular chemicals with each generation.
A single flea can lay as many as 60 eggs per day. The lifespan of a flea is about 90 days.
Controlling fleas does require some effort, but there are there safer and effective ways to control fleas than several well-known commercial flea control products.
If your cat or dog has a severe flea problem, it is often a signal that their health is not as it should be. Many commercial pet foods are nutritionally inadequate and contain harmful additives and by-products. By feeding your animals a high-quality, natural diet, free of additives and
preservatives, you improve their health and dramatically increase their protection from fleas. A healthy animal does not taste or smell as good to fleas.
You can also add these inexpensive, easy nutritional supplements (you may even have these in your cupboards right now).
- Garlic and yeast: Fleas particularly dislike the flavor of garlic and yeast (nutritional or brewer's yeast). Mixing garlic and yeast with your pet's food can render their blood unpalatable to fleas.Cat owners: Please be aware that raw garlic is known to be toxic to cats. According to Dr. Randy Kidd, the use of garlic, as well as onions, shallots and chives, has been shown to cause damage to feline red blood cells which can result in hemolytic anemia and eventual death. Raw garlic and onions can also cause ulcers and irritation of the mouth, esophagus and stomach.
- Use about a teaspoon of brewer's (or nutritional) yeast daily for cats and small dogs, and a tablespoon for a 50-pound dog. Some animals are yeast intolerant and will react with a skin allergy. Discontinue use if this occurs. Combine the yeast with the garlic in your animal's food, and consider doubling the dosage during peak flea season.
- Other natural repellents include vitamin B1 (thiamine) and apple cider vinegar. (See your veterinarian for the correct amount of a vitamin B1 supplement for your pet.) The dosage of apple cider vinegar is about one teaspoon daily in the pet's drinking water. Apple cider vinegar helps
strengthen the immune system.
Controlling fleas in the environment -- indoor control
- Grooming - Combing your cat or dog daily with a flea comb is an important part of flea control. Bathing animals regularly is also advised. There is no need to use chemical flea shampoos. A water bath with a gentle soap that won't irritate their skin is sufficient to eliminate existing fleas.
- Set a Trap - You can trap fleas by placing a dish of soapy water under a night light near where your pet sleeps. Fleas are attracted to warm light and will easily drown in the soapy water. This works for adult fleas only, but with diligence, can be very effective reducing the flea population. Fleas already residing on your pet aren't likely to leave, so you will still need to flea comb and/or bathe them in a mild shampoo (even a baby shampoo will work as fleas don't survive well in soapy water). If the idea of keeping a soapy water dish near your pet is not attractive, plug-in flea traps are available. These electric traps are equally, if not more, effective. (They seem to work well for ants, as we have noticed in our personal experience.)
- Sanitize your pet's environment - Fleas lay their eggs everywhere -- in carpets, curtains, upholstery, animal bedding, cracks and crevices. Destroying the fleas' eggs by thorough weekly vacuuming and frequent washing of animal bedding goes to the source of the problem and will help eliminate the flea population in your house. After vacuuming, be sure to replace the bag right away and take the old bag out of the house. Keeping clutter on the floor to a minimum also will deprive the fleas of hiding places.
Outdoor control
Nematodes
- While you can't kill off the fleas that your pet is going to encounter when it goes outside, you can keep the population down in the area around your house by using nematodes. These microscopic worms eat flea larvae and are therefore a natural way to control the flea population.
- You can purchase nematodes online
 , or at pet and garden stores. Place them in moist, shady spots near your house; neither fleas nor nematodes survive in the hot sun. As nematodes multiply rapidly, you have only to introduce a small number to have the desired effect.
Mosquitos ..
- The most important measure you can take is to remove standing water sources. Change birdbaths, wading pools and pet's water bowl twice a week. Keep your eavestroughs clean and well-draining. Remove yard items that collect water.
- In a New England Journal of Medicine study, oil of eucalyptus at 30% concentration prevented mosquito bites for 120.1 minutes, while Bite Blocker with 2% soybean oil kept bites away for 96.4 minutes. (the eucalyptus oil must have a minimum of 70% cineole content, the active therapeutic ingredient.) Citronella, a common alternative to DEET, performed poorly, warding off bugs for only 20 minutes.
- If you're using the barbeque, throw a bit of sage or rosemary on the coals to repel mosquitos.
- An effective natural bug repellent, mix one part garlic juice with 5 parts water in a small spray bottle. Shake well before using. Spray lightly on exposed body parts for an effective repellent lasting up to 5 - 6 hours. Strips of cotton cloth can also be dipped in this mixture and hung in areas, such as patios, as a localized deterrent.
- Neem oil is a natural vegetable oil extracted from the Neem tree in India. The leaves, seeds and seed oil of the Neem tree contain sallanin, a compound which has effective mosquito repelling properties. Neem oil is a natural product and is safe to use. Look for new Neem Oil-based commercial products on the market.
- Planting marigolds around your yard works as a natural bug repellent because the flowers give off a fragrance bugs and flying insects do not like.
- Campers often report that the very best mosquito repellent is Avon Skin-So-Soft® bath oil mixed half and half with rubbing alcohol.
- Thai lemon grass
(Cymbopogon citratus) is a natural and effective mosquito repellent. It contains the natural oil, citronella, which is safe and effective; in fact, lemon grass citronella is considered more effective than true citronella as an insect repellent. You can buy Thai lemon grass at garden centers and supermarkets, and it grows readily into a clump about 15" across and about 2ft tall. To use as a mosquito repellent, break a stalk off from the clump, peel off the outer leaves, until you find the scallion-like stem at the base. Bend the stem between your fingers, loosening it, then rub it vigorously between your palms - it will soon become a pulpy, juicy mass. Rub this over all exposed skin, covering thoroughly at least once. You can also make a tincture using alcohol, for spray applications.
Flies
- Use mint as a fly repellent. Small sachets of crushed mint can be placed around the home to discourage flies.
- Bay leaves, cloves and eucalyptus wrapped in small cheesecloth squares can be hung by open windows or doors.
- Place a small, open container of sweet basil and clover near pet food or any open food in the house.
- A few drops of eucalyptus oil on a scrap of absorbant cloth will deter flies. Leave in areas where flies are a problem.
- You can make your own flypaper with this simple recipe: Mix 1/4 cup syrup, 1 tbsp. granulated sugar and 1 tbsp. brown sugar in a small bowl. Cut strips of brown kraft paper and soak in this mixture. Let dry overnight. To hang, poke a small hole at the top of each strip and hang with string or thread.
- A site visitor suggests a light spray of Pine Sol on affected areas will deter flies.
Moths
- Cedar chips in a cheesecloth square, or cedar oil in an absorbant cloth will repel moths. The cedar should be 'aromatic cedar', also referred to as juniper in some areas.
- Homemade moth-repelling sachets can also be made with lavender, rosemary, vetiver and rose petals.
- Dried lemon peels are also a natural moth deterrent - simply toss into clothes chest, or tie in cheesecloth and hang in the closet.
Silverfish
- Silverfish prefer damp, warm conditions such as those found around kitchen and bathroom plumbing. Start by vacuuming the area to remove food particles and insect eggs.
- Silverfish can be easily trapped in small glass containers. Wrap the outside with tape so they can climb up and fall in. They will be trapped inside because they cannot climb smooth surfaces. Drown them in soapy water.
- The best preventive control is to remedy the damp conditions.
Natural Wasp Control
Prevention
- Seal entry points. Solitary wasps in the home can be a nuisance; daily sightings of wasps in the home may indicate inside nest building, and more attention to the problem is required. Searching for and sealing off their point of entry is the best line of defense. Check your house for unsealed vents, torn screens, cracks around windows and door frames and open dampers. Observe the flight path of a wasp, especially in the morning, which may reveal the entry/exit point.
- Remove food sources. In spring and early summer, wasps are attracted to protein foods. Any food left outdoors, such as pet food, picnic scraps, open garbage containers or uncovered compost piles should be removed or covered. Wasps imprint food sources, and will continue to search an area for some time after the food has been removed.
In late summer and early fall, the wasp food preference turns to the sweet. Their behavior is also more aggressive. Open cans of pop, fruit juice, fallen apples beneath fruit trees and other sweet food sources will attract wasps. Be sure to cover drinks and open food containers, keep a lid on the compost and avoid walking barefoot near fruit trees. Remove any fallen fruit rotting on the ground.
- Avoid swatting. Swatting and squashing wasps is counterproductive. When a wasp is squashed, a chemical (pheromone) is released which attracts and incites other nearby wasps. It's best to walk away from a hovering wasp.
- Avoid wearing bright colours or floral patterns. If you look like a big flower, you may be attracting the curious wasp looking for nectar.
- Minimize use of perfumes and other strong scents. In the later part of the summer, wasps are attracted to sweet smells.
- Wasps building nests in your bird house? This common problem can be minimized by lining the under-roof area with aluminum foil. Use a staple gun to attach. Another option is to rub the under-roof area liberally with bar soap - ordinary soap like Ivory soap will do. One application can last through an annual wasp season.
Traps
- There are varying opinions on the effectiveness of using traps to reduce the wasp population in specific areas. This is partly due to the distance wasps will travel when foraging. Wasps have been known to fly from 300 to 1000 yards (meters) from their nest in search of food. Traps are more likely to be useful in small areas.
- Setting out traps in the early spring, when only a few wasps may be evident, can be most effective. This is because these early season wasps are usually queens, and it's estimated that each trapped queen represents several thousand worker wasps in the late summer. You can buy wasp traps or make your own.
- Make a simple Water Trap - Use a razor knife to cut the top from a 2-liter plastic pop bottle.
 Cut just above the shoulder of the bottle. Discard the screw top. Fill with water about halfway.Coat the neck with jam, invert it and back on the bottle. Use two small pieces of tape to hold it in place. Wasps will go down the funnel to get the jam, but will find it difficult to get out. Most will drop into the water and drown.
- A few drops of dish soap in the water will make it hard for the wasps to tread water, and will hasten their demise. (You can also add a 1/4 cup of vinegar to the water to discourage honeybees from entering the trap in search of water.)
Note: In the spring and early summer, wasps are attracted to protein-based baits; use jam or other sweet baits in later summer and into fall.
- Empty the trap daily! As more wasps are caught, they create a raft on which other wasps can survive for a considerable time. Some of these wasps then find purchase on the plastic of the bottle and eventually crawl out. The longer the trap is untended, the more wasps will manage to escape, which may result in swarming.
The trap will be most effective if set about 4' above ground.
If you're stung -
- If stung, the wound should be washed with water which helps remove some of the venom, and treated with an anti-sting product or antihistamine cream which can reduce the pain and spread of the venom.
- Another treatment is to apply a poultice of meat tenderizer (for people not allergic to bee stings) or salt to the sting site as soon as possible after the incident. Use about 1/2 teaspoon mixed with enough water to produce a paste. Leave on the sting site for about 30 minutes.
- If the sting is in the throat or mouth, or if an allergic reaction occurs, seek medical attention immediately. Symptoms of allergic reaction may include difficulty in breathing, dizziness and nausea. One symptom which should alert people that they may be having a reaction is feeling very tired. If you are stung and you want to go to sleep - get help! Anyone with a history of hypersensitive reactions should have a sting emergency kit available. High-risk persons should wear a medical alert bracelet or other alert item.
- If you are stung and have an allergic reaction, and you have no antihistamine, a teaspoonful of instant coffee under your tongue will work effectively as a temporary antihistamine, and allow you more time to get medical help.
- Soak a tissue or cotton swab with distilled white vinegar, and apply to site of bite. This will relieve the stinging in a few seconds. Continue apply this to bite site until victim finds the bite no longer is stinging.
- Make a paste from water and baking soda on a soft cloth or kleenex, apply it firmly to the sting and leave it on for 30 minutes to an hour. It will stop the stinging and itching and draw the venom out -- you will see a yellow spot of venom in the soda when you remove the patch. This works for wasp, yellowjacket and non-poisonous scorpion stings.
- Importantly, adrenaline is required to reverse the potentially life threatening effects of swelling of the throat and constriction of the airways. If you do not have adrenlaine with you then its best to create your own through physical exertion. Do not lie down and rest because this may result in permanent rest!
Weed Killer - Instead of using chemicals or even vinegar to kill weeds that come up in sidewalks or driveways.....just use boiling water! Works great...is cheap...and no chemicals!
Composting Information:
Soil conditioner. With compost, you are creating rich humus for lawn and garden. This adds nutrients to your plants and helps retain moisture in the soil.
Recycles kitchen and yard waste. Composting can divert as much as 30% of household waste away from the garbage can.
Introduces beneficial organisms to the soil. Microscopic organisms in compost help aerate the soil, break down organic material for plant use and ward off plant disease.
Good for the environment. Composting offers a natural alternative to chemical fertilizers.
Reduces landfill waste. Most landfills in North America are quickly filling up; many have already closed down. One-third of landfill waste is made up of compostable materials.
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| What to Compost |
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Material
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Carbon/Nitrogen
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Info
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| table scraps |
Nitrogen
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add with dry carbon items |
| fruit & vegetable scraps |
Nitrogen
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add with dry carbon items |
| eggshells |
neutral
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best when crushed |
| leaves |
Carbon
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leaves break down faster when shredded |
| grass clippings |
Nitrogen
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add in thin layers so they don't mat into clumps |
| garden plants |
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use disease-free plants only |
| lawn & garden weeds |
Nitrogen
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only use weeds which have not gone to seed |
| shrub prunings |
Carbon
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woody prunings are slow to break down |
| straw or hay |
Carbon
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straw is best; hay (with seeds) is less ideal |
| green comfrey leaves |
Nitrogen
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excellent compost 'activator' |
| pine needles |
Carbon
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acidic; use in moderate amounts |
| flowers, cuttings |
Nitrogen
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chop up any long woody stems |
| seaweed and kelp |
Nitrogen
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rinse first; good source for trace minerals |
| wood ash |
Carbon
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only use ash from clean materials; sprinkle lightly |
| chicken manure |
Nitrogen
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excellent compost 'activator' |
| coffee grounds |
Nitrogen
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filters may also be included |
| tea leaves |
Nitrogen
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loose or in bags |
| newspaper |
Carbon
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avoid using glossy paper and colored inks |
| shredded paper |
Carbon
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avoid using glossy paper and colored inks |
| cardboard |
Carbon
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shred material to avoid matting |
| corn cobs, stalks |
Carbon
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slow to decompose; best if chopped up |
| dryer lint |
Carbon
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best if from natural fibers |
| sawdust |
Carbon
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high carbon levels; add in layers to avoid clumping |
| wood chips |
Carbon
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high carbon levels; use sparingly |
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You can also add garden soil to your compost. A layer of soil will help to mask any odours, and micro-organisms in the soil will accelerate the composting process.
Do not compost meat, bones or fish scraps (they will attract pests), perennial weeds (they can be spread with the compost) or diseased plants. Do not not include pet manures in compost that will be used on food crops. Banana peels, peach peels and orange rinds may contain pesticide residue, and should be kept out of the compost. Black walnut leaves should not be composted. Sawdust may be added to the compost, but should be mixed or scattered thinly to avoid clumping. Be sure sawdust is clean, with no machine oil or chain oil residues from cutting equipment.
For kitchen wastes, keep a Iarge plastic container with a lid and a handle under the sink. Chop up any large chunks before you toss them in. When the container is full, then empty it into the compost pile. This reduces the number of trips you'll have to make.
With yard and garden wastes, different composting materials will decompose at different rates but they will all break down eventually. If you want to speed up the composting process, chop the larger material into smaller pieces. Leaves and grass clippings are also excellent for compost, but should be sprinkled into the bin with other materials, or put on in thin layers. Otherwise they will mat together and take longer to compost.
| Tips for successful composting |
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~ Activate your compost. 'Activators' can be added to your compost to help kick-start the process and speed up composting. Common compost activator materials are: comfrey leaves, grass clippings, young weeds, well-rotted chicken manure.
~ Flying insects attracted to your compost? Small fruit flies, especially, are naturally attracted to the compost pile. They can be discouraged by simply covering any exposed fruit or vegetable matter. Keep a small pile of grass clippings next to your compost bin, and when you add new kitchen waste to the pile, cover it with one or two inches of clippings. Adding lime or calcium will also discourage flies.
~ Unpleasant odors from your compost pile? This can be a concern in urban and suburban areas with small lots and neighbors living close by. Odors can be reduced, or eliminated, by following two practices: first, remember to not put bones or meat scraps into the compost; second, cover new additions to the compost pile with dry grass clippings or similar mulch. Adding lime or calcium will also neutralize odors. If the compost smells like ammonia, add carbon-rich elements such as straw, peat moss or dried leaves/
~ Is your compost pile steaming? No problem. A hot, steamy pile means that you have a large community of microscopic critters working away at making compost.
~ Matted leaves, grass clipping clumping together? This is a common problem with materials thrown into the composter. The wet materials stick together and slow the aeration process. There are two simple solutions: either set these materials to the side of the composter and add them gradually with other ingredients, or break them apart with a pitchfork. Grass clippings and leaves should be mixed with rest of the composting materials for best results.
~ Problems with raccoons? If there's a population of raccoons in your area, they will be naturally attracted to your compost pile. The best solution to this problem is to bar their entry to the compost. (Traps and poisons are usually more trouble than they're worth.) A wood or metal lid can be easily hinged to the bin described above on this page, or you can buy a commercially-made compost bin with secure fitted lids which are pest-proof.
~ A moveable feast. The soil beneath a compost bin becomes enriched as nutrients filter down with successive waterings. You can place your bin on a plot of earth which you plan to use for a future vegetable or flower bed, or fruit tree. Each year, you can move the bin to a different area; you'll get a double benefit - the compost from the bin, and a bed of nutrient-rich soil ready for new plantings.
~ Additive only. Compost should be used as a soil additive, and not as the 100% growing medium.
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Check out this valuable E-book that I found: My Organic Food Garden - This E-book was written by Jeff Serland who has 17 years of experience as an organic gardener. It comes with free bonus books!
or this one: Food4Wealth
This E-book comes complete with a fully illistrated step by step manual and over 60 minutes
of videos by a scientist and professional environmental horticulturist.
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